Summer Dresses from Butterick, June 1926

As I read through successive issues of Delineator, I enjoy finding patterns that have common elements. These four color pages from the June, 1926, issue were illustrated by M. S. Walle. Some of the fashion ideas I wrote about in May reappear on new styles in June, like this charming border print:

This 1926 two piece dress uses a border print fabric, although it could also be made in solids or prints. Butterick 6862 for Misses and Small women. Delineator, June 1926, p. 27.

This 1926 two piece dress uses a border print fabric, although it could also be made in solids or all-over prints. Butterick 6862 for Misses and Small Women. Delineator, June 1926, p. 27.

Delineator was a large format magazine, so I’ll show an overview of each color page and then select pattern illustrations for a closer look.

Clothes for Young Women, Small Women, and Teens, June 1926

Butterick patterns for Misses 15 to 20, and small women. Delineator, June 1926, p. 27.

Butterick patterns for Misses 15 to 20, and small women. Delineator, June 1926, p. 27.

Butterick pattern 6865 for a simple dress included a handbag pattern. Delineator, June, 1926, p. 27.

Butterick pattern 6865, Delineator, June, 1926, p. 27.

This simple dress pattern included a handbag pattern. The long scarf-like tie passes through buttonholes in the front of the dress — a very common 1920’s feature.

This evening pattern, No. 6819, shows that not every twenties dress had a snug hip band.

This evening pattern, No. 6819, from 1926, shows that not every twenties dress had a snug hip band.

Butterick patterns 6831 and 6842, Delineator, June 1926, p. 27.

Butterick patterns 6831 and 6842 for misses and teens, Delineator, June 1926, p. 27.

The dress on the left has “saddle shoulders” and a long, thin, vertical tie. The yellow dress is made of sheer fabric and has interesting cuffs, with a long ribbon in front to create a vertical line. The dress on the right, below, also has a long ribbon as trim.

The two dresses on the left ar for afternoon parties. (Remember "tea dances?") The dress on the right has decorative smocking. Butterick 6854, 6848, and 6873, Delineator, June 1926.

The two dresses on the left are for afternoon parties. (Remember “tea dances?”) The dress on the right has decorative smocking. Butterick 6854, 6848, and 6873, Delineator, June 1926.

Women’s Dresses, June 1926

Women's dress patterns from Delineator, June 1926, page 28.

Women’s dress patterns from Delineator, June 1926, page 28. “Plaits [Pleats] Narrow Down Smart Width to Parisian Slimness.”

The two dresses at top right look like house dresses, while the four bottom patterns are outdoor dresses, often worn for spectator sports. Notice all the vertical details introduced to draw the eye up and down, instead of across, the body.

Butterick patterns 6858 for a dress and bag, and dress 6867. Delineator, June 1926, p. 28.

Butterick patterns 6858 for a dress and bag, and dress 6867. Delineator, June 1926, p. 28. Triangular pockets!

Spectator sporty dresses, Delineator, June 1926, Page 28. Butterick patterns 6839, 6833, 6794 and 6853.

Spectator sport dresses, Delineator, June 1926, Page 28. Butterick patterns 6839, 6833, 6794 and 6853. “Plaits [pleats] narrow down smart width to Parisian slimness.”

The woman on the left is carrying a shooting stick (a combination walking stick and folding seat.) The white dress appears to have a large, printed scarf billowing behind it.  The dress with a long rectangular bib does not have a belt. The skirt part of dresses like the three at right usually were sewn to an underbodice (like a camisole) that allowed the skirt to hang straight from the shoulders instead of having a waistband.

Dressier dresses for women, Delineator, June 1926, page 29. Butterick pattern illlustrations by M.S. Walle.

Sheer dresses for women, Delineator, June 1926, page 29. Butterick pattern illlustrations by M.S. Walle. The fabric on the bottom four implies that these are afternoon dresses.

Two evening dresses for women, from Butterick patterns 6856 and 6860. Delineator, July 1926, p. 29.

Two evening dresses for women, from Butterick patterns 6856 and 6860. Delineator, July 1926, p. 29.

Orange was a popular color in the twenties; click for a  Chanel evening gown  made of “deep orange” lace.

Afternoon dresses 6871, 6875, and 6863, and a green dress (Butterick 6827) with a long tie threaded through an opening in the bodice. Delineator, June 1926, bottom of page 29.

Afternoon dresses 6871, 6875, and 6863, and a sheer green dress (Butterick 6827) whose collar ends in long ties threaded through an opening in the bodice. Delineator, June 1926, bottom of page 29.

Clothes for Children, Summer 1926

Butterick patterns for children, Delineator, June 1926, page 30.

Butterick patterns for children, Delineator, June 1926, page 30.

Dresses for girls 8 to 15 ?? and a little boy's suit. Delineator, June 1926, top left of page 30.

Dresses for girls 8 to 15 ?? and a little boy’s suit. Delineator, June 1926, top left of page 30. Butterick 6841, 6813, 6851, 6880.

Girls dresses from Butterick patterns 6866, 6845. amd 6861. Delineator, June 1926, bottom of page 30.

Girls’ dresses from Butterick patterns 6866, 6845, and 6861. Delineator, June 1926, bottom of page 30.

Several of the June dress patterns included a pattern for a handbag — even the ones for girls.

Dress pattern with matching handbags, June 1926. Butterick.

Dress patterns with matching handbags, June 1926. Butterick.

When the same design was manufactured in more than one size group, it was assigned different numbers:

These dresses all use ruching as a design element; the two at left are for Misses (No. 6854) and for girls and young teens (No. 6841.) The ruched dresses for women, at right, are Butterick Nos. 6871 and 6863. June 1926.

The two ruched dresses at left are for Misses (No. 6854) and for girls and young teens (No. 6841.) The ruched dresses for women, at right, are Butterick Nos. 6871 and 6863. June 1926.

These dresses all use ruching as a design element; the two at left are for Misses (No. 6854) and for girls and young teens (No. 6841.) Note all the different, age-related hem lengths. The ruched dresses for women, at right, are Butterick Nos. 6871 and 6863. Ruched dresses were illustrated in May, 1926, and there are other examples in this post.

Chiffon dresses with fluttering panes (aka handkerchief hems) from June (left, No. 6860,) May (No. 6796, center) and June, No. 6819. The pink dress is for MIsses and small women; the yellow one is in women's sizes. 1926.

Chiffon dresses with fluttering panes (aka handkerchief hems) from June (left, No. 6860,) May (No. 6796, center) and June, No. 6819. The pink dress (6819) is for Misses 15 to 20 and small women; the yellow one (6796) is in women’s sizes. 1926.

The gown at the left assumes a rather flat chest, but the two at right have gathering at their shoulders.

You may have noticed that many of these mid-twenties dresses have tucks,  gathering, or ruching near the shoulder, taking the place of bust darts to accommodate a normal female chest. 1926 was also the year when Delineator offered one pattern for a bust flattener next to a pattern for a non-flattening brassiere with two soft “pockets” — both patterns on the same page.

1926: gathering or ruching at the front shoulder takes the place of a bust dart.

1926: Gathering, ruching, smocking or tucks at the front shoulder take the place of a bust dart, creating a little fullness over the chest.

 

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2 Comments

Filed under 1920s, bags, Children's Vintage styles, Sportswear, Tricks of the Costumer's Trade, Vintage patterns

2 responses to “Summer Dresses from Butterick, June 1926

  1. Beautiful! I think you have convinced us all that the Delineator is a superb source for twenties fashion–not only the cuts but the colors and accessories. What struck me here is how complicated many of the patterns are, with tucks, ruching, pleats, and godets. No one hour dresses here!

    • You’re right about complex cuts — the simple tube dresses of the early twenties must have sold a lot of sewing machines, but the most difficult dress I ever stitched was many panels of bias-cut chiffon! (It’s customary to “hang” bias dresses before stitching them, but once removed from the pattern pieces, the chiffon stretched into shapes that no longer resembled any of the pattern pieces — and the chalk stitching lines fell right off the fabric. What we learned: mark and label the wrong side of each piece with removable tape before you lift it off the cutting table!) I usually write a few blogs ahead, so I’ve been looking at a lovely but challenging bias chiffon dress from 1927 — at first I thought you were referring to it — wait for it! The 1928 dress on the far left in this image has lots of curved panels: https://witness2fashion.files.wordpress.com/2015/07/1928-dec-p-33-formal-500-dpi-illus.jpg Brooke — being a professional who likes a challenge — loved it.

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