Two Coats from January 1936

I was looking for images of 1930’s hats when I noticed this inspiring coat. If you can get past the stylized nineteen- thirties’ illustration, the lapel structure is rather modern.

Butterick coat 6594 from Delineator, January 1936.

Butterick coat 6594 from Delineator, January 1936.

The coat seems to be unlined, perhaps with the fashion fabric turned in and topstitched instead of having a separate facing piece, although I don’t see any topstitching on the coat front. Perhaps the skirt was attached with a waist seam.

Butterick coat pattern 6594, detail. 1936.

Butterick coat pattern 6594, detail. 1936. The center panel is topstitched, as are the cuffs and pockets.

I can’t quite figure out how the topstitched lapel works, since there is no indication of that topstitching continuing down the front of the coat. Does the front of the coat turn in and act as its own facing? Or is it a separate piece? (More likely.) In either case, if that line of topstitching is practical, why doesn’t it continue down the front of the coat? Did the illustrator reverse the solid and dotted lines? Or is that “topstitch” purely decorative and confined to the lapel area?

text-6594-coat-1936-jan-p-39-spring-2

It would not be hard to adapt this to a more purely geometrical construction. When we look at the back, we see that the center panel is tapered, helping to shape the coat.

Butterick coat 6594 from Delineator, January 1936.

Butterick coat 6594 from Delineator, January 1936.

I’m not crazy about the pockets, but I could imagine this as a modern jacket. If the center panel continued below the waist in front, inseam pockets would be a natural adaptation. Good thing I don’t sew for myself (or even have a dressmaker mannequin.)

Butterick 6594 as inspiration:  I couldn’t resist updating it, with the front panel tapering at the waist and repeated in the skirt to make easy pockets.

Butterick coat from 1936, updated. I copied the top stitching on the lapel, to match the 1926 illustration. (I couldn't think of a hat that says "2017" more clearly than this one....)

Butterick coat from 1936, updated. I simply copied the top stitching on the lapel, to match the 1936 illustration. (But I couldn’t think of a hat that says “2017” more clearly than this one….)

I also love swing-backed coats like this one, also from 1936:

Butterick coat 6582, January 1936, Delineator.

Butterick coat 6582, January 1936, Delineator. Look at those big, rectangular buttons, and the surprise of that pointed “fishtail” back yoke.

Pattern information on Butterick topcoat 6582 from 1936.

Pattern information on Butterick topcoat 6582 from 1936. The plaid version was suggested as resort wear. I’m not sure that plaid would work over “even rather formal clothes.”

Are those double pockets, or just an oddly shaped patch pocket?

Butterick 6582 is not exactly “timeless,” but I still have a ten year old, black wool raincoat shaped like this one in my closet! (It doesn’t have those intriguing buttons, that pointed yoke, or those tiny pockets, however.) I remember buying mine at Nordstrom’s before a trip to New York in January 2008. I haven’t worn it much during the years of California drought.

 

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4 Comments

Filed under 1930s, Musings, Vintage patterns

4 responses to “Two Coats from January 1936

  1. I love the top pattern you envisioned! It’s something I would sew.

  2. Beautiful coat, and you almost stumped me for moment when I noticed the very noticeably 2017 hat! I thought they were ahead of their time. Had to look twice. Nicely modernized!

  3. Did a double take on your updated hat! Brill!

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