Butterick Cloche Hat Pattern 5549, from 1924

Hat pattern for home stitchers, Butterick 5549 from 1924.

Butterick hat pattern 5549 is a simple four-gored cloche hat with a modest brim. (For a previous post describing a different 1920’sButterick hat pattern, No. 5418, click here.) These hat patterns were a revelation to me: many of us were taught to begin a 1920’s hat with a felt “shape,” which has to be cut and steamed into the style you want. This hat is made from a flat sewing pattern.

Butterick cloche hat pattern 5549 from Delineator, October 1924, p. 36. (Duvetyn was a brushed wool.)

Although illustrated on Misses on page 36, it was also featured in illustrations of Ladies’ fashions.

Butterick cloche hat pattern 5549 in 1924 and 1925.

The pattern shows variations in trims (none, feathers, or a ribbon rosette;) sometimes the seams are accented with topstitching, and the brim may or may not be topstitched.

5549 in shiny fabric trimmed with a purchased feather trim.

5549 with a different, drooping feather trim.

5549 with a rosette made of pleated ribbon and a topstitched brim.

5549 worn with a coat and a larger feather cluster.

Hat 5549 with a rosette. (The girl next to her is holding a garden trowel.) Delineator. May 1925.

Here, Butterick hat pattern 5549 is shown next to a “store-bought” hat. Both are chic styles for 1924 – 1925.

Butterick hat 5549 and a purchased hat. Delineator, November 1924.

Note: Vintage patterns sometimes assumed that the stitcher would figure out that things like linings, grosgrain bands and interfacings are needed. At a lecture,  Milliner Wayne Wichern suggested stiffening fabric hats with the natural fiber interfacing used for tailoring men’s suit fronts. It can be steamed into curved shapes using a tailor’s ham. Synthetic interfacings are not recommended. And the grain of the fashion fabric and the interfacing must be matched!  He offers workshops in several locations.

Petersham ribbon (often used for the interior hat band) looks like grosgrain but has a special virtue: grosgrain ribbon does not stretch and cannot be steamed into a curve; Petersham can be made to curve — important when you need to stretch the ribbon on one side, as in the invisible waistband of a skirt, or in millinery.

11 Comments

Filed under 1920s, Accessory Patterns, Hats, Vintage patterns

11 responses to “Butterick Cloche Hat Pattern 5549, from 1924

  1. i for one am extremely excited that cloche hats can be sewn!

  2. Thank you very much for this interesting post!
    I have sewn several hats from a modern, but very similar pattern, one lined with Watteline, the others with light fusable interfacing. It works fine, but propably doesn’t give as much shape as horsehair or something like that. The hats are more on the limp side and get their form through the head they are covering. The big asset in my opinion: They are crushable and don’t need as much care as felt or straw hats do.

  3. I do love a cloche, so this is a treasure! The sewing tips are priceless—thank you!

    • I am terrible at millinery, but I have watched a good theatrical milliner at work, and taken a weekend class with Denise Dreher (her book — with patterns in it — is From the Neck Up.) The milliner made her trial patterns from stiff brown craft paper, cut along the seam lines, and — matching the seam lines perfectly– taped the pattern together: the only way to make the curved lines join completely. She sometimes went through a lot of trials to get a brim to curve the way she wanted, taking out a 1/4 inch here and adding a 1/4 inch there…. You can make a final pattern with small seam allowances after you’re satisfied with your paper hat. This would also be a good approach if you are starting with a commercial pattern. Make it in stiff paper, tape it together, see if it works and fits the way you want. Good luck!

      • Thank you sooo much for these hints! Will keep an eye out for her book. I’ve not an ordinary head size so these things will help tremendously.

      • Another tip from Denise Dreher: when you make a photocopy of a hat pattern, the copier may reduce it slightly (even at 100%), so always measure your copies to be sure the hat pattern will be big enough! Go for it!

      • My goodness, in all my years of photocopying I never knew that! I looked for her book and amazon has it, so have put it on my wish list. Thanks again!

  4. Pingback: Two Butterick Hat Patterns from 1926 | witness2fashion

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