Two Butterick Hat Patterns from 1926

Butterick hat pattern 6810, May 1926, Delineator.

Butterick turban pattern 6634 from Delineator, February 1926.

Usually, Butterick would feature its hat patterns repeatedly, showing the Butterick hats in Delineator pattern illustrations over several months, worn with a variety of other Butterick patterns.  I was surprised by how often this turban (6634) appeared, and how few times the six gored cloche (6810) was shown.

Hat 6810 was shown with a coat and dress ensemble in May, 1926.

Here, it seems to be made of one dark material and one lighter material, or one shiny and one matte. The band-like brim turns up and is tied at the side back.

Butterick hat pattern 6810, May 1926, Delineator.

The two tone effect could be subtle, the result of using a ribbed fabric like faille with the grain running either up and down or crosswise, as in another cloche hat from Butterick:

Butterick cloche hat pattern 5952 from 1925.

(I am surprised how many cloche hat patterns for home stitchers were available.  Click here to see two from 1925. Here’s one, with trim variations, from 1924. Butterick 5128 was shown with many trim variations — which could be adapted for any simple cloche hat you buy, if you’d rather not make a gored hat pattern.

https://witness2fashion.files.wordpress.com/2014/03/three-woven-ribbon-trims.jpg

This trim is just strips of grosgrain ribbon woven together. Circa 1924.

Back to hat 6810 from 1926:

Left: here Butterick hat 6810 was made in one shiny, solid-colored fabric to match a sheer green georgette dress. 1926.

Turban pattern 6634, on the other hand, was illustrated many times.

Butterick turban pattern 6634, from Delineator, February 1926.

The turban is worn by two models in this illustration.

Left and right, Turban 6634. The hat in the middle is not 6810.

What to wear with your turban. These clothing patterns are in the normal ladies’ size range: bust 32 to 44 inches.

Left, turban 6634 on a page of “Paris Patterns.” March 1926. The commercially made cloche on the right is nearly brimless.

Not all fashion drawing is perfect…. but this shows turban 6634 with a matching gray ensemble of cape and dress.

Turban 6634 with cape 6618  and dress 6642.

The same dress (6642) was featured on another page, without the cape or turban. The turban (right) topped a different dress.

Right, turban 6634. Delineator, March 1926. (“Jewel” placement could vary to taste.)

Butterick patterns, Delineator, March 1926, page 34. Left is dress 6642 again. The other dresses use border prints.

I think of turbans as aging, rather than youthful, since they can cover the hair completely. But these 1926 fashions are not necessarily for older or stouter women; they are in the normal size range, and the turban pattern itself was “for ladies and misses [ages 14 to 20.]” And there is usually a glimpse of hair at the cheek.

A glimpse of hair softened the turban look.

Those two dresses on the right above make clever use of border prints:

Left, a dress with its own light coat, worn open. This used to be called a “redingote” style, and it’s flattering to women who feel they aren’t thin enough to wear authentic 1920s’ styles.

But turban 6634 was also shown on patterns for the stout: Dress sizes up to 52 inch bust.

Turban 6635 was shown on this page of fashions for large or stout women, Delineator, March 1926, page 36. Left: Note the clever tucks giving fullness over the bust.

Again, turban 6634 worn with a large size dress pattern. May, 1926.

Butterick turban pattern 6634 from Delineator, February 1926.

The turban is always shown with some kind of pins or buttons as decoration; they could be placed to suit the wearer.

Tying the turban. Right: Dead fox optional.

witness2fashion: One of the disadvantages of attending church in the 1950s was the possibility of sitting behind a woman wearing a fox stole, with its literally beady eyes — made of glass — reproaching you throughout the service.

 

24 Comments

Filed under 1920s, Accessory Patterns, Hairstyles, Hats, Hats and Millinery, Vintage Styles in Larger Sizes

24 responses to “Two Butterick Hat Patterns from 1926

  1. anna

    I always found gored garments difficult to make and get a pleasing result. Maybe that’s why the gored hat wasn’t featured as often, if home milliners found the pattern harder to manage.

    • It’s six sections, sewn together, like a baseball cap but a different length of section. They aren’t insets into a larger piece.
      I have a four piece cloche that just never spoke to me after i assembled it, so I left it on a head form for a couple of years to stare at now and then. This year I realized what i was missing: there’s not a lot to them, and it’s the finishing edge/trim/decoration that makes the difference between them and …. baseball caps. The original pattern didn’t fail me, my vision of what a hat did.Luckily I had saved the other bits from the pattern, and attached them correctly (think fabric bands like the rings of Saturn, attached with a starburst clip above the ear)
      Zoom conferences are better with hats. Today, I think I’ll go with the six piece cloche with the lobsters.

  2. Chris

    As to gores or point seams at or below the hip on dresses: weren’t those inserts sewn on top of the attached fabric and not sewn right sides together? I think the former way with close top-stitching. It’s the only way to get those seamed areas looking perfect.

  3. Turbans…so chic in the drawings, but not that great in person. Like you, I associate them with older women…and also dirty hair.

    • anna

      And cancer patients, poor things.

      • Mei

        Yes! I am a huge turban fan, but I am also a cancer survivor. I own one, but I simply can’t make it work. Best case scenario, I look like I am observant… worst case, cancer. UGH! Instead, I do complicated scarf wraps and medium-brim fedoras in straw (I live in Miami).

      • I admire creative head wraps so much because I am all thumbs with them! Many years ago, when a friend stared chemo, I got a pattern for making hats from polar fleece and ended up making so many that she took them to the hospital as giveaways. They were incredibly easy, and I especially liked the ones with some bulk around the brim area, because that minimizes the turban look.

      • I feel fortunate to know so many cancer survivors. One creative costumer didn’t want to miss a costume convention, so she made futuristic spikes and glued an “Alien” mohawk to her temporarily bald head! Medicine is making progress. And a sense of humor helps, too.

  4. Lovely patterns, thank you!
    (No face masque patterns, I suppose… 😉)

    • Not this post (click here) — I’m making masks from the Kaiser Hospital pattern, but the two 36 inch ties are relatively time-consuming. Kaiser washes masks at very high temperatures, so they don’t want elastic. But I’m about to look for another place to send masks with elastic straps, until my supply of elastic runs out. By then I’ll have more tie material arriving. I also like to use 100% cotton T-shirt knit on the layer that touches the face — very comfortable; a lot of friends emphasize that they want people to be able to identify the inside and the outside of the mask at a glance (so no one picks up their used mask and puts an “outside” next to their face by mistake) so they use a different color 100% cotton on each side instead of one piece folded. It’s only 1 more seam to sew…. I notice a lot of mask instructions on the internet that don’t mention pre-shrinking; Kaiser wants 2 hot washes before making and one more wash of the finished masks. Makes sense to me.

      • I have been burning through the shoelaces. Decades of high tops leave many single 36″ cotton laces available. I run it through the elastic channels and close it at the back in a loop.
        So hoarding was a good idea. 😉

      • Hoarding AND being able to find what you need when you need it! It took me a week to find both the big roll of bias tape and the roll of 1/4″ elastic I last used when I was working….

      • Interesting that Kaiser has taken a lot into account that sewers would know, but not the average non-sewer. I always wondered about using elastic for the same reasons… Thanks for the link!

      • I just updated my “mask post” because Kaiser is no longer accepting mailed masks. The link has been taken down. Here’s the update I wrote: “Some of the links in this post no longer go where they used to go:  After completing a batch of masks for Kaiser hospital, I discovered that the link no longer takes me to mailing instructions.  I’m currently in contact with another organization in the SF Bay Area.  I chose to make masks for Kaiser because I’m currently not only housebound (sheltering in place) but physically limited by a knee problem, so just going up and down stairs or driving a car is a challenge. I wanted to mail them! Sigh…. The thing is, when I make the same masks for friends and neighbors, I make a few improvements — like cutting the face lining from 100% cotton T-shirt knit, or using twill tape for the ties, which saves a lot of time. I can even substitute elastic ear loops for the ties if I want. Much faster construction! The T-shirt lining has 2 purposes: 1} it’s comfy and perspiration absorbent next to your face and 2) (something many of my friends making masks advise) the inside of the mask cannot be mistaken for the outside if you remove it and put it on again. It’s still completely washable, just not washable in a hospital autoclave!” I found that finding fabric 36 inches long in my scrap stash — the length of the Kaiser ties — was difficult– thank goodness I found a roll of wide cotton bias tape left over from my costuming days. And I could mass produce the mask itself quickly, but binding it and finishing the ties took about 15 minutes per mask! Not to mention the finger-burning need to iron-in the ties’ foldlines before sewing. Much easier to bind the sides of the mask with an opening top and bottom and run 1/4″ elastic or twill tape or a tube tie (like a spaghetti strap) through it!

      • Perhaps Kaiser’s site was overrun by spammers, and their IT department or site couldn’t handle the overload? We’ve all tried to do our bit, and I hope your friends and neighbours will be able to handle your sudden surplus. (Or perhaps even get it to Kaiser!) Thank you for your update – stay safe! xoxo

      • It appears that Kaiser got enough of the kind of masks we all are wearing now. It took me too long to find the “makings” and prewash them. Good news is that a shelter here in SF needs them enough to come and pick them up. Having a project is good for me and them.

      • In the SF Bay Area, the MakeMePPEbayarea site has a constantly growing spreadsheet of shelters and institutions that need non-medical quality masks.

      • Very wise idea – good for them!

  5. Love the turbans, especially the wrap style. The cloche with turn up brim is also appealing. Any patterns or drafting information available?

    • The Commercial Pattern Archive (CoPA) (click here) is always a good place to start. Create a login and it’s free! https://copa.apps.uri.edu/index.php
      I am awful at millinery, but have watched some very good milliners; in order to work out the hat pattern, they cut the pieces from stiff paper without seam allowances, tape them together along the seam lines, and master the shape and curve they want through trial and error. It takes patience, but that’s how a fabulous hat that fits over your head and hairdo slowly happens. Many modern hat patterns adapt themselves as a starting point. Don’t know anything about this site, but the hat looks pretty good.

  6. Marilyn Hamill

    The cross-eyed woman in gray has absolutely nothing going for her, poor thing! The woman underneath her is also regretting her fashion choices.

  7. anna

    One question about cloches and turbans. I am a fan of the Phryne Fisher mystery books and Greenwood mentions Phryne owning and using hatpins, even though she wears the classic 1928 close fitting hats. Surely one didn’t need hatpins anymore for those? And what would you pin them to, if the piled-up do had been bobbed to a shining cap that just brushed your cheeks?

    I know I’m a stickler for detail, but I’ve read so much period fiction that was written in the period that I notice things like that. And I know the people here will understand!

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