Tag Archives: 1937 dresses large

According to Type: December 1937 Styles for Four Kinds of Figure

Just when you think you’re starting to understand the styles of a certain period, surprises come along.

Dresses According to Type. Butterick Fashion News, December 1937.

Dresses According to Type. Butterick Fashion News, December 1937.

These four dress patterns were presented as appropriate for four different types of figure — and different ages. Can you tell which is which? The bodies illustrated don’t help much.

One is “For the Smart Matron,” one is “For Junior Miss Figures,” one is “For Shorter Women of Larger Hip,” and one is “For Misses 5 feet 4 inches and under.” Try matching the description to the dress without being able to see the face and hair: dec 1937 BFn numbered no faces 500

Does it help to know that this dress, from the same issue, is a “Junior Miss frock?”

Companion-Butterick pattern 7633, for Junionr Miss sizes 12 -20 or bust measurements 30" to 38". December 1937.

Companion-Butterick pattern 7633, for Junior Miss, sizes 12 -20 or bust measurements 30″ to 38″. Butterick Fashion News, December 1937.

Not very youthful, is it?

Answers

The fact that the two figures on the left are in active poses while those on the right are standing still is a big hint. Those are styles for larger and older women. Here are the descriptions, from left to right in the main illustration.

Butterick 7643, for Misses 5'4" and under, sizes 12 to 20, and bust 30 to 40". Dec. 1937.

Butterick pattern 7643, for Misses 5’4″ and under, sizes 12 to 20, and bust 30 to 40″. Dec. 1937.

Butterick pattern 7620 for junior miss figures, sizes 12 -20, or bust 30 to 38."

Butterick pattern 7620 for Junior Miss figures, sizes 12 -20, or bust 30 to 38.”

Butterick pattern 7647 for Shorter Women of Larger Hip. Bust sizes 34 to 48."

Butterick pattern 7647 for Shorter Women of Larger Hip. Bust sizes 34 to 50.”

Butterick pattern 7645 for the Smart Matron, bust 34 to 48."

Butterick pattern 7645 “for the Smart Matron — a draped dress with slim skirt.” Bust 34 to 48.”

I think the Smart Matron has the profile of Barbara Stanwyck. She certainly does not look like a woman with a 48″ bust, with waist and hips to match . . . . Readers of The Lost Art of Dress may recall that draped bodices and skirts were only considered appropriate for women in their 30s or older, women “of a certain age” and level of sophistication.

Back views, 7643, 7620, 7647, 7645.

Back views, 7643, 7620, 7647, 7645.

The woman of larger hip (7647) would probably benefit from a center back seam in her skirt to match the one in front.

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Filed under 1930s, Companion-Butterick Patterns, Vintage patterns, Vintage Styles in Larger Sizes

Flattering Styles for Large Women, February 1937

Woman's Home Companion, February 1937, p. 70.

Woman’s Home Companion, February 1937, p. 70.

The Woman’s Home Companion offered four dress patterns for hard-to-fit women in its February 1937 issue. The first two were “designed especially to flatter the large woman,” and the second pair of patterns were a pre-cursor of “half-sizes,” being designed for women under 5′ 4 1/2″ tall and with “hips a little larger than average.” All four Companion-Butterick patterns were available up to size 52″ bust measurement. The articles include period advice on flattering styles, accessories, and color choices for large women; some of it is standard [wear vertical lines, avoid over-large prints] , and some of it – tiny collars? – is a surprise.

Youthful Details for You Who Are Not So Slim [page 70]

Companion-Butterick patterns 7215 &7213, 1937.

Companion-Butterick patterns 7215 &7213, 1937.

“We are sure you feel as we do about the question of youthful clothes for the large but not old figure. You are tired of the staid styles you usually find in the big sizes. You have had an overdose of surplice lines.  You want fresh-looking new-looking dresses – and there is no reason why you shouldn’t have them.

“These two patterns have been planned to solve your problem. Each is cut in sizes up to 52-inch bust measure, each has a way of concealing pounds, yet each has a smart touch that is worthy of size 16. [I.e, a teen dress size.]

Companion Butterick patterns 7215 & 7217, 1937.

Companion Butterick patterns 7215 & 7217, 1937.

“In Pattern 7215 it is the tiny contrasting collar and vest section – such a pleasant change from the usual V. Look at the belt, too. This flatters your figure because it is hidden in front. And note the smooth shoulders – a good idea if you happen to be large through the top of the body. You can make [it] in youthful colors – this flax-blue linen perhaps, with contrasting pink. It is just the type for one of the new medium-high felts [see hat] with a medium-high crown.”

“In pattern 7213 you will like the soft drapery of the jabot – as kind to the face as to the figure. You will fiind too that the sleeves have been cut to give the new broad look to sloping shoulders. Wine is a good color for the long-sleeved version – smart with black suède oxfords delicately trimmed with fine scalloped stitching. In both dresses, as you see, there is a convenient choice of necklines and sleeve lengths.” WHC feb 1937 p 70  stout patterns top left

Add to Your Height and Subtract from Your Hips [page 71]

Woman's Hone Companion, Feb. 1937, p. 71

Woman’s Home Companion, Feb. 1937, p. 71

“You may be short and your hips may be a little larger than average but you can still wear the new clothes to good advantage. One way is to choose patterns cut to fit your figure. Another is to be sure that every detail of your costume is in proportion to your height.

“Not for you the too-heavy hat, but the small saucy brim and the medium-high crown of this beige felt. Not for you the rough leathers and bulky lines of a peasant’s shoe, but the slender silhouette of these soft blue step-ins. Not for you the overlarge too-vibrant print, but the fine traceries of this monotone floral. Not for you any fluffy trimmings, but this crisp touch of white organdie or the new saddle stitching, used here to emphasize long up-and-down lines.”

Companion-Butterick patterns 7217 & 7219, Feb. 1937.

Companion-Butterick patterns 7217 & 7219, Feb. 1937.

“About the patterns: No.7217 has this season’s raised waistline – and excellent idea because it adds inches to your skirt. You will notice too that there is no belt to break your height and that there is enough fullness above the skirt to conceal any extra pounds about the diaphragm.

“No. 7219 has the flattery of a small collar, a tiny belt, and definitely vertical lines. It is perfect for beige and for piqué, the ribs of the material running up and down except in the blouse section and the sleeves. There the fabric is used cross-ways to add interest from a fashion angle.”

Other views of patterns 7217 & 7219

Other views of patterns 7217 & 7219

 A Pre-Flattened Hat WHC feb 1937 p 70 squashed hat

I’ve seen a lot of 1930s hats in costume storage that look like they got squashed; I never realized that they might have started life that way!

 

Truth in Illustrating?

As usual, Woman’s Home Companion has written about patterns styled for large women, but illustrated the article on standard 1930s fashion figures. [Illustrations by Ernst.] True, these four patterns were available from size 34″ bust all the way up to size 52″, but the illustrations don’t give any idea of how the dresses would look on, say, a size 42. To be fair, however, the illustrations on page 71 did show slightly larger-than-usual hips. WHC feb 1937 p 71 hip comparison

 

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Filed under 1930s, Companion-Butterick Patterns, Hats, Vintage patterns