I love the back of this jacket. It appeared on a page of coats in the Butterick Fashion News flyer from March, 1948.
Two versions of the swingback coat are flanked by a very Dior-ish New Look long coat, and a dolman-sleeved coat that fits closely at the waist, but has a bloused back above the waist.
Here’s the front view, shown in a below-hip length:
Pattern matching on a large-scale stripe like this would require patience — and extra fabric. Personally, I prefer the solid version in wool or linen. The sleeves are cut in one with the yoke, on the cross grain:
The shoulder pads are substantial.
Flared Coat for Teens, Butterick 4453, 1948
The flare on this jacket suit, with hood, (Butterick 4453) is not as extreme as Butterick #4457, but it’s charming all the same:
Flared Back Coat for Girls, Butterick 4423, 1948Butterick Coat No. 4368 with Dior Influence, 1948
The star next to the pattern number means that it was available in Butterick’s new Special Patterns for Women under 5′ 5″, as well as Standard length (for women 5’5″ and over.) It’s amazing that, until the 1940s, Butterick patterns were apparently sized for women 5’5″ and over. Small women with a bust over 38 inches were really out of luck, since patterns sized for Misses 15 to 20 “and small women” only ran to bust 37 or 38.
Coat No. 4368 has very wide shoulders, to make the waist look tiny, and enormous pockets, to exaggerate the width of the hips, for the same reason. You can see the pockets in the back view. Couture versions of these nipped-waist styles could include a boned inner structure; nevertheless, this is a coat meant to be worn by a corseted (or waist-cinched) woman. It will never look right over a natural body. (And those widely spaced buttons won’t control the center front midriff without help.)
Butterick Coat 4367
It’s hard to believe that this coat was flattering to very many women; the blouson look was not popular with men, and was famously parodied in an episode of I Love Lucy. (1956.) The blouson was a look that came and went during a period of otherwise very tight dresses.