Tag Archives: embroidery on 1920s dresses 1926 twenties

Evening Dress Patterns Become Wedding Dress Patterns, Fall of 1925

Butterick 6227 was an evening dress in September, and a Wedding dress in October, 1925. Delineator.

Butterick 6227 was an evening dress in September, and a wedding dress in October, 1925. Delineator.

While writing about patterns illustrated as wedding gowns in Delineator magazine, October 1925, I recalled that Delineator (owned by Butterick Publishing Company) sometimes illustrated a pattern as an evening or afternoon dress in one issue, and then illustrated it as a wedding dress in a later issue. So I went looking for different versions of the seven “wedding” dresses from October.

Butterick evening dress Patterns 6360 and 6362, Delineator, October 1925, page 33.

Butterick evening dress Patterns 6360 and 6362, Delineator, October 1925, page 33.

These two evening dresses were illustrated as wedding gowns in the same issue — in fact, on the reverse side of the same page:

Butterick patterns 6362and 6350, Delineator, October 1925, pg 32.

Butterick patterns 6362 and 6350, Delineator, October 1925, page 32.

Here’s a closer look:

Two versions of Butterick 6360, Delineator, Oct. 1925. Pages 32 and 33.

Two versions of Butterick 6360, Delineator, Oct. 1925. Pages 32 and 33.

The evening dress description was a little different from the wedding version (see “October Brides”, posted Oct. 16th.)

6360-party-dresss-text-6352-text-1925-oct-dresses-p-33-too-hat-6359

The description of it as a bridal dress did suggest that it could be altered after the wedding and worn as an evening dress. Evening dresses usually had lower necks and lower armholes than day dresses.

Butterick 6362 as a wedding dress, page 32, and as an evening dress page 33. Delineator, Oct. 1925.

Butterick 6362 as a wedding dress with sheer sleeves, on page 32; and as an evening dress on page 33. Delineator, Oct. 1925.

As a wedding dress, it has covered arms (the sleeves were attached to the slip) and a higher neckline. For evening,  it’s accessorized with necklaces and a very big feather fan (above right.}6362-party-dress-text-1925-oct-dresses-p-33-too-hat-6359

Butterick 6349 also appeared in the October issue as a wedding dress and as a casual dress:

Two illustrations of Butterick 6349; Delineator, October 1925, pages 32 and 26.

Two illustrations of Butterick 6349; Delineator, October 1925, pages 32 (wedding) and 26 (day dress.) No. 6349 was only available in sizes 15 years to 20 years.

The skirt of the wedding version looks a little more flared, probably because satin is a stiffer fabric. It also looks shorter to me — again, perhaps that’s due to the droop of a softer material on the right.

As I expected, I found other “bridal” patterns illustrated as evening dresses in the previous month’s magazine. This one was impressive in both versions:

Butterick pattern 6227 as an October Bride and a September evening dress. Delineator.

Butterick pattern 6227 for an October bride and a September evening dress. Delineator.

Butterick 6227, Delineator, September 1925.

Evening dress description of Butterick 6227, Delineator, September 1925.

Butterick 6175 was illustrated as a bride in October; in September, the look was appropriate for a party, but much less formal. Does the lace make all the difference?

Butterick 6175 was illustrated as a bride’s dress in October; in September, the look — illustrated in shiny satin with with fur collar and cuffs — was appropriate for a party, but much less formal. Does the lace make all the difference?

6175 description from Delineator, Sept. 1925.

Dress on right, above:  Pattern 6175 description from Delineator, Sept. 1925.

I only found five of the seven October Brides’ patterns in day or evening versions — perhaps because I simply didn’t photograph them.  Why some dresses had bridal potential and others didn’t is not clear to me. If one of these two dresses could be adapted to a wedding, why not the other?

Pattern 6224, October bride, and 6275, just a pretty September dress. Delneator.

Pattern 6224, an October bride, and pattern 6275, just a pretty September dress with embroidery on the sheer sleeves. Both have flared skirts and similar necklines. They are both very long in the torso. Delineator.

6275-text-1925-sept-p-36-party-dresses

I wondered about this rose-trimmed dress, too — until I realized that it was born to dance:

Butterick 6276 from Sept. 1925. Delineator.

Butterick 6276 evening dress pattern from September  1925. Delineator.

Butterick 6276 description, Delineator, Sept. 1925.

Butterick 6276 description, Delineator, Sept. 1925.

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Filed under 1920s, Vintage Accessories, Vintage patterns, Vintage Styles in Larger Sizes, Wedding Clothes

Colorful Dresses for May 1926

A page of Butterick patterns from Delineator, May 1926. Illustrated by Marie L. Britton.

A page of Butterick patterns from Delineator, May 1926. Illustrated by Marie L. Britton. Page 29.

If you were looking for summer dress ideas in May, 1926, you might have found inspiration in these Butterick patterns from the Delineator. As often happens, the dresses for “Misses 15 to 20 and small women” show the hemlines that older women would adopt a couple of years later. The full-page colored illustrations were done by Marie L. Britton.

A full page of Butterick fashions for young women, Delineator, May 1926.

A full page of Butterick fashions for young or small women, Delineator, May 1926. Page 27.

I’ll be showing the tops and bottoms of four color pages, but here are a few trends to look for:

Border prints, fashionable in 1925, continue to add charm to 1926 dresses. I especially like the yellow one on the left. Both use the border print at the bottom of their sleeves.

Butterick patterns 6788 and 6779 show how much a border print can contribute to the charm of a one-or two piece twenties dress. Delineator, May 1926.

Butterick patterns 6788 and 6779 show how much a border print can contribute to the charm of a one-or two piece twenties’ dress. Delineator, May 1926.

Both of those patterns also have a sleeve that continues into the yoke, called a saddle shoulder.

Ruching (several parallel lines of gathering) guarantees a snug fit at the hips of these dresses:

Butterick patterns 6817, 6777, 6760 and 6779 use ruching to create a snug hip band. Delineator, May 1926.

Butterick patterns 6817, 6777, 6760 and 6779 use ruching to create a snug hip band. Delineator, May 1926. The very short dress is for girls 15 and under.

Sewing tip: if you don’t want the ruching threads to break, sew a flat panel of sheer fabric matching the slip, and cut to hip size, under the ruching.  (In the 1970s or 1980s, dresses used elastic thread for a similar effect.) To control the blousing, the hip band can be attached to the under slip.

Embroidery, popular in the 1910’s and twenties, adds a custom touch to some of these dresses, although the embroidery was optional. Just a touch of embroidery on the sleeve is a surprise on a rather severe pleated dress (center.)

Embroidery trimmed dresses for women and little girls in the twenties. Delineator, May 1926.

Embroidery-trimmed dresses for women and little girls in the twenties. Delineator, May 1926.

The dress in the middle also has a saddle sleeve — plus another mid-twenties feature so common I almost forgot to mention it: long ties or streamers in front, often part of the collar.

The 1920’s fashion ideal was youthful and slender, but the 1920’s feature we all notice — a horizontal line across the hip, which is the widest part of a woman’s body — was the opposite of slenderizing. You can find many strategies for creating a vertical line in the twenties — including those long 1920’s necklaces — but the most common styling trick is long ribbons or ties down the center front.  Often a band which enclosed the back of the neckline became long ties falling down the front of the dress. Even the coat (below left) has them.

Here are the full images of these — and other — outfits for summer, 1926.

Butterick patterns for young or small women: 6771 (plus a tam-o-shanter hat,) 6775, 6744, and 6788. Delineator, May 1926, p. 27.

Top of page 27, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns for young or small women: coat 6771 (plus a tam-o-shanter hat,) dresses 6775, 6744, and 6788.

Butterick patterns for young or small women, Nos. 6777, 6801, 6718, 6791. Delineator, May 1926, p. 27.

Bottom of page 27, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns for young or small women, Nos. 6777, 6801, 6718, 6791.  The lavender dress may be a border print; no embroidery pattern is cited. The red dress has a saddle shoulder and rows of yellow decorative top-stitching on collar, cuffs, and pockets.

Women's patterns from Butterick, Nos. 6765 (plus a turban, No. 6634,)No. 6823 (open dress and slip,) and dress No. 6781. Delineator, May 1926, p. 28 top.

Top of page 28, Delineator, May 1926.Women’s patterns from Butterick: far left is dress No. 6765 (plus a turban, pattern 6634,) the blue outfit is No. 6823 (open dress and slip,) and green print dress No. 6781 is at far right.

Bottom of page 28, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns 6796, 6767, and 6817.

Bottom of page 28, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns 6796 (far left), 6767 (in black), and 6817 (far right).

Top of page 29, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns 6785, 6763, and 6787.

Top of page 29, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns 6785 (far left), 6763 (in black), and 6787 (far right). At far left, the collar binding turns into very long streamers.

Bottom of p. 29, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns 6792, 6779, 6759.

Bottom of p. 29, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns 6792, 6779, 6759. Notice the stocking colors.

Number 6759 (at right) has a half cape in back. So does Number 6765 (page 28 top left,) the red and black dress with a pleated skirt — and a pleated back-cape.

Top of page 30, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns for children and young teens.

Top of page 30, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns for children and young teens. Top left is a little boy.

Bottom of page 30, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns for children and young teens.

Bottom of page 30, Delineator, May 1926. Butterick patterns for children and young teens. (I love the play of stripes on the far right!) The two middle-school aged girls on either side have mid-knee hemlines.

 

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Filed under 1920s, Children's Vintage styles, Tricks of the Costumer's Trade, Vintage Accessories, Vintage patterns