Two views of a suit from Molyneux, left, and a sporty double-breasted suit from O’Rossen. The Molyneux suit used the same ombre striped fabric for the skirt and to trim the jacket. Delineator magazine, April 1927.
Since time forthe Easter Parade is approaching, lets take a closer look at the hats:
Left, two views of a hat from Molyneux; right, a simpler hat by Reboux. 1927.
Original description of Paris designer suits from Delineator, April 1927, p. 24.
Molyneux was one of the most influential designers of the late twenties. O’Rossen is almost forgotten today. Another very successful French designer from the 1920’s was Louise Boulanger, whose fashion house was called Louiseboulanger. I may have shown her appliqued coat before — but it’s worth a second look (below right.)
French designer coats illustrated in Delineator, April 1927, p. 25. Left, a coat by Paquin; right, an applique-trimmed coat from Louiseboulanger.
Description of Paris coats from Delineator magazine, April 1927, p. 25.
These coats could be purchased in New York at the shop of Mary Walls. Here is a closer look at those hats:
Left, a hat from Molyneux; right, a hat by Alphonsine trimmed “with a huge taffeta ribbon bow.” 1927. They were available in New York: the Molyneux from Mary Walls, or the Alphonsine from Saks Fifth Avenue.
If your budget did not run to couture, these Butterick patterns for Spring were also available:
Butterick coat pattern No. 1346, and dress 1386. Delineator April 1927, p. 31. The dress has closely pleated tiers cut in a scallop shape.
Descriptions and back views of Butterick 1346 and 1386, 1927.
The coat lapel is trimmed with a large “flower” made of ribbon. The hat at left is decorated with a cliquet pin. Bar pins, some of them quite large, like the one on the dress, were often shown worn like this, pinned diagonally to the front of a dress which looks too fragile to support it. 1927.
Some early 20th c. bar pins. I have worn these on my lapel or at my throat, but never diagonally on the mid- chest as seen in 1920’s illustrations.
Butterick coat pattern 1387; Frock 1392; two-piece dress pattern 137; and “jumper frock” 1372, Delineator, April 1927, p. 32. The skirt of No. 1372 hung from an under bodice, not a waistband.
Butterick 1387 and 1392, 1927.
Details of Butterick 1370 and 1372. 1372 has a bow at the neck, partly hidden by her hand..
Butterick patterns 1360, 1408, and sports wear patterns 1396 (spectator sports) and 1378 (active sports, like tennis.) Delineator, April 1927, p. 33.
The rows of parallel top-stitching on No. 1360 is a style of trim that was popular in 1917.
Butterick 1360 and 1408.
The tennis dress below is illustrated with contrasting fabric inside the pleats, which would have flashed when the wearer was in motion. I’ve also seen this in several other twenties’ illustrations.
Butterick 1396 and 1378, from 1927. The monogram shows the influence of Molyneux. That sleeve construction would be rather binding in an active tennis game, but truly sleeveless styles were still associated with evening dress.
Butterick patterns for Teens, April 1927. The one with the black jacket is called the “tomboy suit.” Delineator, April 1927, p. 29.
Alternate views of Butterick teen fashions 1362, 1388, 1344, and 1366. April 1927 Delineator, p. 29.
Butterick styles for teens, 1927. Patterns 1362 and 1388.
Descriptions of Butterick 1362 and 1388.
Details of Butterick’s “tomboy suit,” pattern 1344, and a surplice dress, 1366. Delineator, April 1927.
Descriptions of Butterick patterns 1344 and 1366.
“Size 19 years ” had a 38 inch bust. Size 15 years was proportionately smaller. For more about 1920’s pattern sizing click here.