Inspiration for your cloche hat trim: McCall 1372 from 1924 at CoPA.
The Commercial Pattern Archive (CoPA) at URI has hat patterns, which makes it a good place for milliners to look for inspiration. McCall 1372 is one of the patterns that doesn’t have an image of the pattern pieces, but you could apply these trim ideas to a purchased hat.
As usual, this hat pattern included more than one style. Notice the simple pleated ribbon cockades on the red hat. Are the centers filled with beads or lace or French knots? Your choice.
If you want to read the suggested fabrics or other details, just log in to the C0mmercial Pattern Archive and search for McCall 1372. (Be sure to chose “any” in the final “collection” category.) Using CoPA is free!
Many of CoPA’s hat patterns do show the original pattern piece shapes.
McCall 1603 shows two different cloche hats.
I used to think cloche hats had to be made by starting with a felt shape, but 1920s’ sewing patterns allowed women to make a cloche without having to own equipment to steam and block the felt.
The black hat on the left has a very simple pattern:
Three pattern pieces plus a ribbon trim. McCall 1603, View 1.
Cloche hats made from 4 to 6 gores were common patterns. This one has an intriguing zigzag in the brim. McCall 1603, view 2. It looks like the darker brown “brim” is just a piece of ribbon tucked under the hat!
One version of Butterick 1800 (view A) looks like a 4 gored hat from the top but really uses an easy one-piece side-and-crown combined.
Notice that the lining is very simple, and does not have to echo the shape of the hat. The same lining is used for variation B of Butterick 1800:
Butterick 1800, version B. A hat from just two pattern pieces!
An experienced milliner would know to add lining and an interior ribbon band in the right size for the head measurement.
McCall used full-color pattern illustrations on their envelopes, which makes them a joy to find. McCall 1604, dated 1927.
Version 1 only shows two gores, but I’m guessing the instructions said “cut two” of each….
It looks to me like there are two front gores and two gores in back, with a seam creating a ridge across the top.
Pattern pieces for two versions of McCall cloche hat No. 1604. The front and back crown shapes are subtly different.
Version 2 is really simple: a circular top, a crown with tall, curved sides that are crushed into folds, and a quirky shaped brim which folds down over one cheek. You could sew on a pair of jeweled buttons if you don’t have a Cartier cliquet pin.
Hats began shrinking in the 1930s; in the “I would never have figured that out!” department, here is a preview of McCall No. 69, a hat pattern from 1932.
McCall hat pattern 69 uses pattern shapes I would never have thought of by myself. Visit CoPA to see this one!
Version C of McCall 69. The pattern, which looks like it is exploding, uses just one, bizarre, piece plus a ribbon headband.
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