A little guessing game: Can you guess the designers of these three evening gowns illustrated in May, 1927? Hint: Here are some names in alphabetical order; Chanel, Doeuillet, Lanvin, Patou, Vionnet.
Answer:
It shouldn’t be a surprise that the simple gown with ingenious twisted fabric is the work of Madeleine Vionnet.
The gown by Lanvin is elaborately sequinned, and — surprise — under the sheer skirt, it has knee-length trousers!
“Gold and silver spangles outline the bolero in a heavy rope design and trim the bodice of Lanvin’s white crepe version of the Zouave silhouette with lamé trousers.”
The Metropolitan museum collection includes a black evening coat by Lanvin, also from 1927.
“The square decolletage, fulness [sic] at the hips, and the use of vanilla color lace characterize Chanel’s frock.” It’s also notable for the bow shaped pin.
These three dresses could be purchased in New York: the Vionnet and Lanvin from Altman, and the Chanel from Lord & Taylor.
Another interesting fact: All three dresses were designed by women at the top of French fashion — Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Lanvin, and Gabrielle Chanel.
Also illustrated in the same issue of Delineator were these lovely French gowns:
The Metropolitan museum has a similar (but not identical) 1927 black net dress by Patou.
For formal afternoon wear, Lanvin showed this:
Black and white organdy with a red sash is dramatic for an afternoon dress. Delineator explained the most popular evening color schemes from Paris:
P.S. I can’t resist a shout out to Glamourdaze’s beautifully illustrated history of 1920’s fashions.
That Lanvin afternoon dress is so beautiful! Going on my imaginary wishlist 😀
The drape and twist of the Vionnet would translate to a dress today.
I love how you can just barely make out the trousers under the Lanvin dress!
What a good idea for women who did a vigorous Charleston and didn’t want to show their knickers! Wonder if anyone was inspired to make gold lame trousers.